Arrival Information

Greyhound stops near downtown at 3233 Cass Rd. The visitor center , downtown at 101 Grandview Parkway (summer Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-6pm, Sun noon-4pm; rest of year Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, weekends vary; tel 231/947-1120 or 1-800/TRAVERS, ), can help with finding accommodation , though there's a dearth of central budget lodgings in summer. The attractive little Bay Shore Motel , near downtown at 833 E Front St (tel 231/935-4400; $130-160), has a private beach and nice rooms. The remodeled and very central Park Place Hotel , 300 E State St (tel 231/946-5000 or 1-800/748-0133, ; $130-160), is reliable, as are the well-maintained Days Inn & Suites , 420 Munson Ave (tel 231/941-0208; $100-130), and the basic but clean Sierra Motel , 230 Munson Ave (tel 231/946-7720; $75-100), both a couple of miles southeast. There's camping at Traverse City State Park, just outside town at 1132 US-31 N ($15/night; tel 231/922-5270).

Traverse City brochures may tout its exclusive country clubs, but more affordable places to eat are easy to find. Big breakfasts with home-baked bread are served at Mabel's , 472 Munson Ave (tel 231/947-0252), while Mode's Bum Steer , 125 E State St (tel 231/947-9832), is Traverse's premier rib joint. The best bet for a meal, particularly in the evening, is to drive north onto the Old Mission Peninsula where the Boathouse , 14039 Peninsula Drive (tel 231/223-4030), dishes up fresh seafood, pasta and vegetarian food right by the lake. Farther up, on the peninsula's central spine road, the popular Old Mission Tavern , 17015 Center Rd (tel 231/223-7280), has classic European dishes and lots of local art.

The U & I Lounge , 214 E Front St, is the best bar in town; it also serves up great gyros, burgers and salads. Union Street Station , 117 S Union St (tel 231/941-1930), has pool tables and live music of all sorts most nights.